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Thread: Overheating - loss of power

  1. #1 Overheating - loss of power 
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    First of all I left the lights on at a store, killed the battery I got a jump and was gonna drive the car 25 - 30 miles to charge the battery back up, was driving on the freeway, well after about 10 miles the temp was reading hot, then normal then hot again, and then the power dropped, I could not go faster then 50 mph, I was trying to make it to the next exit, then the car just died, pulled off the road lifted the hood, and steam was comming out, had car towed home, I heard that when this car gets hot the computer would shut things down and that could be the cause of power loss, I changed the thermostat, and noticed the radiater cap was rusted up which may be why the resivoir was allways full. Any truth to the computer shuting down componants and caused the power loss, or do you think I blew a gasket, no water in oil.

    1997 Grand Prix SE.3800 Series 2

    1989 oldsmobile DOHC Quad 4
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  2. #2  
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    Quote Originally Posted by grand prix newb
    First of all I left the lights on at a store, killed the battery I got a jump and was gonna drive the car 25 - 30 miles to charge the battery back up, was driving on the freeway, well after about 10 miles the temp was reading hot, then normal then hot again, and then the power dropped, I could not go faster then 50 mph, I was trying to make it to the next exit, then the car just died, pulled off the road lifted the hood, and steam was comming out, had car towed home, I heard that when this car gets hot the computer would shut things down and that could be the cause of power loss, I changed the thermostat, and noticed the radiater cap was rusted up which may be why the resivoir was allways full. Any truth to the computer shuting down componants and caused the power loss, or do you think I blew a gasket, no water in oil.
    I replaced the thermostat, and radiator cap refilled radiater w/coolant, started car, enging shakes has a tick and the service engine light is on.
    engine tempature was hot again, fan's came on but the tempature never went down. replaced water pump a few months ago, its not squeaking or loosing any water from the drip whole, but, does that mean it's a good water puimp? how hard is it to do the hg on these?
    Anyone do one on the 3800 series 2 engine, is it better to buy the head gasket set or just the head gasket?
    should I be worried about a cracked head?
    allthough there is no water in the oil, no steam coming out the engine or tail pipe.
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  3. #3  
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    Quote Originally Posted by grand prix newb
    I replaced the thermostat, and radiator cap refilled radiater w/coolant, started car, enging shakes has a tick and the service engine light is on.
    engine tempature was hot again, fan's came on but the tempature never went down. replaced water pump a few months ago, its not squeaking or loosing any water from the drip whole, but, does that mean it's a good water puimp? how hard is it to do the hg on these?
    Anyone do one on the 3800 series 2 engine, is it better to buy the head gasket set or just the head gasket?
    should I be worried about a cracked head?
    allthough there is no water in the oil, no steam coming out the engine or tail pipe.
    after filling radiater and resivoir,before it got hot the resivoir started leaking coolant out the overfill whole, is that water pump or head gasket?
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  4. #4  
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    Quote Originally Posted by grand prix newb
    after filling radiater and resivoir,before it got hot the resivoir started leaking coolant out the overfill whole, is that water pump or head gasket?
    That would be the radiator cap.


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  5. #5  
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    Well bled the system, ran about a half hour, doesn't over heat, but I think I screwed something up when it got hot before on the road, the engine idles rough, and when I rev the the engine to 3-4000 rpm,'s, it misses heavely, like a air leak somewhere, check engine light still flashing, the mobil mechanic couldn't make it over last night with the code reader. don't want to chance driving to autozone, so will wait til tonight, when he can make it.
    If it was a head gasket, wouldn't there be coolant in the oil, or steam coming from engine or tail pipe, I have none of those symtoms.
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  6. #6  
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    Quote Originally Posted by grand prix newb
    Well bled the system, ran about a half hour, doesn't over heat, but I think I screwed something up when it got hot before on the road, the engine idles rough, and when I rev the the engine to 3-4000 rpm,'s, it misses heavely, like a air leak somewhere, check engine light still flashing, the mobil mechanic couldn't make it over last night with the code reader. don't want to chance driving to autozone, so will wait til tonight, when he can make it.
    If it was a head gasket, wouldn't there be coolant in the oil, or steam coming from engine or tail pipe, I have none of those symtoms.

    I hooked up the OBD2 scanner, and it read as follows:

    1 of 2 -
    code P0303, and undernieth code it says Cyldinder #3 Misfire.

    2 of 2-
    code P0303, and undernieth code it says Cyldinder #3 Misfire.

    What is that. and why did it say the same thing twice?
    Thanks
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  7. #7  
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    Quote Originally Posted by grand prix newb
    I hooked up the OBD2 scanner, and it read as follows:

    1 of 2 -
    code P0303, and undernieth code it says Cyldinder #3 Misfire.

    2 of 2-
    code P0303, and undernieth code it says Cyldinder #3 Misfire.

    What is that. and why did it say the same thing twice?
    Thanks
    Checked #3 spark plug it was a little loose, had black soot on it where combustion was leaking out onto it, was wet with gas, checked for spark, had spark, maybe not enough spark do do the job its suppose to, put plug back in and tightened it , car still ran the sme, will change plugs and wires soon. and update.

    Hey if there was a air leak from the intake or head would there have been a different code other then P0303 also?
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  8. #8  
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  9. #9  
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    It says it twice because one is an active code, the other is a monitoring code. If the check engine light turns off, then the active code has been earsed by the ECU itself because it thinks the problem is gone, but the monitoring code remains. This allows a mechanic at a service shop to see if there is any recent codes that the ECU thinks is no longer a problem, when most cases there is still an underlying problem and can help a mechanic quickly and more accurately define and resolve the root problem.

    Do a compression check. The over heating may have warped the head or blew a head gasket, a compression check will help determine if this is the problem.

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  10. #10  
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    Quote Originally Posted by laserspeeddemon
    It says it twice because one is an active code, the other is a monitoring code. If the check engine light turns off, then the active code has been earsed by the ECU itself because it thinks the problem is gone, but the monitoring code remains. This allows a mechanic at a service shop to see if there is any recent codes that the ECU thinks is no longer a problem, when most cases there is still an underlying problem and can help a mechanic quickly and more accurately define and resolve the root problem.

    Do a compression check. The over heating may have warped the head or blew a head gasket, a compression check will help determine if this is the problem.
    Thanks will do the compression check, I was hoping the scanner would of thrown a different code to determine a warped head or bad head gasket,
    or could the P0303 code also be do to one of those?
    Like I said no coolant in oil, or steam coming from engine or tail pipe at normal operating tempature.
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