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Thread: Stud Welding/Fasteners Question

  1. #1 Stud Welding/Fasteners Question 
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    Hi all

    Not too swift on some technical stuff. I thought maybe some of you educated folks could help me.

    H&S 4500 UNI-SPOTTER STUD WELD GUN -VS- Chicago Electric (Harbour freight stuff)

    Ok Stud welds are about one second welds--so given that if I have say 1/16" sheet metal with polyurethane insulation sheet directly behind the placement of the studs (can not remove before welding) will this stuff melt under the heat much? How much heat can be expected to be generated? Fire issues? The insulation would not be visible so scorch marks--cosmetic is not an issue. Any melting I guess could be ceased by water cooling imediately after the fastening? what kind of compromising of the weld strength would occur under this action?

    Next:
    How would a stud weld hold up as the actual faster for the two sheetmetal panels? Anyone know how they would compare to say 1/8" pop rivets? sheer stength---etc

    Thanks for any comments
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  2. #2  
    pro-liberty CF Senior Member LS1FC3's Avatar
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    That is pretty thin sheet metal. Even tacking will get it hot quick. I want to say it will be okay for a small tack but I would test to make sure if you can spare the material. Heat-treating with some water immediately after might lead to the weld cracking. I have very limited experience with welding so hopefully this helps.

    Tacks will hold sheetmetal just fine. Assuming a good weld, I would wager for it against the rivets.
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    The system works with rivets but I would like to use a weld as rivets are impratical. My understanding is that stud welds are mostly for dent pulling fender metal. fastening the two sheets of 1/16 together would, I guess be more like 1/8. but that is why I'm asking around before I buy a stud welding gun with $ cash thats tight. Maybe someone out there has experience with Stud welder guns?

    thanks for the response
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    Dunno why tack welding wouldn't work on that. Try a couple test pieces first and see how it goes. I swear I have tack welded that size sheet before and didn't have a problem.
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  5. #5 Stud Welding/Fasteners Question 
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    Thanks for info...
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  6. #6  
    deltaolds
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    Quote Originally Posted by zeldadll View Post
    Ok Stud welds are about one second welds--so given that if I have say 1/16" sheet metal with polyurethane insulation sheet directly behind the placement of the studs (can not remove before welding) will this stuff melt under the heat much? How much heat can be expected to be generated? Fire issues? The insulation would not be visible so scorch marks--cosmetic is not an issue. Any melting I guess could be ceased by water cooling imediately after the fastening? what kind of compromising of the weld strength would occur under this action?

    Next:
    How would a stud weld hold up as the actual faster for the two sheetmetal panels? Anyone know how they would compare to say 1/8" pop rivets? sheer stength---etc

    Thanks for any comments
    insulation will melt, might even catch on fire, if you pour water on welded stud while it is still hot, you most likely will make micro cracks in the joint, and you will weaken it, studs are welded to pull body panels out, not a structural\load bearing\permanent solution.
    pop rivets work great however, when you clip 2 thin pieces of steel you need a washer on the back side, cuz stem will expand and will enlarge the hole, in back sheet, thus making the joint loose\weak. if you can't get to back side, you might want to look for another way, welding is a good way, as long as you have right welder, wire, and experience, or you will burn holes in sheetmettal. but you have insulation, so welding in your case might be a problem.

    try rivets, use steel rivets, never use aluminium rivets with steel panels if the joint has a chance of getting wet, you will create galvanopair (sp?), and it wil rust before you realize it, don't mix different metals. for the same reason body shops that work on aluminium body cars never use the same tools on steel and alum. (at least that is how they supposed to do)


    edit, i missed 1\16 before, so yea, rivets should be fine, 1\16 is relatively thick metal, no need for washer. i,ve done it many times, even thinner mettal i used rivets for, very strong joint, (if you put rivets right).
    Last edited by deltaolds; 04-05-2011 at 10:57 AM.
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  8. #8  
    deltaolds
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    holly shit, you right, i didn't even look at op date, only at last post.
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  9. #9  
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