i have a 90 eclipse gsx and i keeps overheating, all the coolant boils out through the reservoir, when it overheats the radiator ends up empty when i fill it back up i tried to make sure there wsnt any air lock, i have a new water pump, and cap, and it keeps doing it WTF???? anyone??

White smoking coming out the tail pipe.

sounds like you didnt purge the air out good enough.

no its not smoking, i just reebuilt the engine 500 miles ago

is water getting into the oil? when you rebuilt it, did you check the head to see if it was warped at all?

you have an air pocket in the system. A large one.

^That was my next suggestion. HUGE air pocket or blockage (I've seen a retard leave a shop rag in the water pipe when reinstalling his engine) I'll go see if I can pull a how-to to get air out of a DSM coolant system. Although this is not the most common problem for DSMs.

Does your fan kick on at all? There must be coolant in the car to test this as the coolant temp sensor does no read air temp no matter how hot it gets.

^ That's what I was going to say. Could be something as simple as a fuse or relay for your fan. Trying to think positive.

Ok, after refreshing my memory by looking through my tech articles, I realized that air pockets don't occur in DSMs. The system is designed to push our air pockets by the end of the 2nd heating cycle.

So, going back to my OWN experience. I had a car that was overheating everytime I stopped. The fan had broke (which is why I said check the fans).

Do you have an aftermarket radiator of fans?

My Celica was overheating because of poorly installed coolant when it was flushed. It's also designed to push air out...like any motor in the past 10-15 years.

im pretty sure there the stock radiator fans, i didnt change them, theres 2 of them, one of the fans works the other doesnt, it's fine when i drive for like 3 min or so then someonehow the water boils out or somehow it ends up empty, when i started the car after refilling it the other day i could hear like sloshing around of water, or rushing water it was like behind the dash or around there. and i had the head resurfaced and checked before i put it back on. should i have the radiator checked for blockage?

so why don't you fix the fan....You defaintly have air in the system or it wouldn't slosh around. Have you checked your water pump to see if it's even moving coolant?

IMHO flush it and start over. Fix the fan, check the waterpump (usually it will have a leak valve to let you know the waterpump failed.) The water behind the dash is hot coolant out from the engine into the heatercore.

so aftewr i flushed the system, it was still overheating, i checked the tail pipe and theres lots of moisture coming out of it, like when you put your hand behind it it gets wet. head gasket? im going to do a compression test ASAP, but i just replaced the head gasket like 500 miles ago, how could it be blown again?

I know on a 95 GSX the second fan wasnt really needed and didnt effect the cooling of the engine.

I know this, as when my friend Jeff had his, we removed it as it was in the way of the external WG.

yeah thats what i thought, i didnt think one fan would cause the engine to overheat, but still, how could i blow the head gasket barely after i rebuilt it?, just so it doesnt happen again

improperly installing or not cleaning the surface properly before installing the gasket.

yeah thats what i thought, i didnt think one fan would cause the engine to overheat, but still, how could i blow the head gasket barely after i rebuilt it?, just so it doesnt happen again

your engine is aluminum, over heating it can make that head warp quick.

if your running high boost on stock setup or higer boost than the setup can take that will be the first thing to go, doesnt matter if it has 1 mile on it. also, scribs is right. aluminum heads warp quickly once overheated, or if the surfaces arent exactly level it will warp further. also, the same thing will happen with forged internals+ high compression. generally you dont run too high compression on stock internals. i have no clue what your running but those are just a few ideas. also, check the heatercore for blockage. you said "under the dash" and the heatercore is right under the center console on the firewall. if its not those, i dont know what to tell you.

okay so i just took the head off and the head bolts were not as tight as they should be, im guessing they were torqued incorrectly, or is their any other way they would become loose? is there anything i should check before putting the head back on, to prevent it from overheating again?

oh and i got it resurfaced and checked too, so the heads good.

After installing the head you are supposed to retorque the head studs after a few miles.