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99hondaaccord
08-12-2008, 09:41 PM
So I was storing my 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee on the 9th floor of a parking garage in Phoenix. I've heard that the heat can kill a battery. The Jeep ran perfect before parking it the last time. Well I went to move it and it was dead, completely dead. No lights, no power locks, nothing. No click when I turned the key.

I pulled my car up and gave it a jump, and the Jeep started when I revved the car up. However, the jeep wouldn't stay running unless I kept my foot on the gas. If I left it to idle, the jeep would die.

what do you think?
Check the voltage at your battery while you have it revved up.

Alchemist
08-14-2008, 05:30 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=68729

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=68737

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=68769

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=68779

Alchemist
08-15-2008, 03:50 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=68898

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=68906

Alchemist
08-19-2008, 06:02 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=68924

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=69050

Arbiter
08-20-2008, 12:44 PM
1993 Camry 3.0 v6 3vz-fe auto

Long story short:

Camry is pulling to the right fairly hard (hold the wheel approx 10 - 11 o'clock to go straight) It pulls in drive, and in neutral (coasting). There is no vibration. Turning the wheels at a stop, you can hear a low clunk going right to left.

It has been getting worse, and I feel like it is the tie rod. Unfortunately, I live somewhere with a shop as my only option. I told them the issue, they told me after diagnosis that the passenger inner/out tie rod was worn. I told them to replace. I went to get the car and the Driver's side had been replaced. The car still pulls right, I am not paying anything but diagnosis.

I am planning on just going to another shop and having the passenger side replaced specifically.

- would the tie rod cause this pulling?
- How dangerous is this on this car, everything seems solid, just pulls right. Is this gonna break and kill me (or my wife)?

deltaolds
08-20-2008, 12:53 PM
you need to take it for a wheel alligment, tire shops usually have those machines, they would tell you exactly what is cousing the problem.

there is no way anyone can say for sure what to do over the net, cuz there are many reasons that can contribute. uless you check you won,t know.

you could rotate tires, it might help a bit,

Arbiter
08-20-2008, 12:55 PM
you need to take it for a wheel alligment, tire shops usually have those machines, they would tell you exactly what is cousing the problem.

there is no way anyone can say for sure what to do over the net, cuz there are many reasons that can contribute. uless you check you won,t know.

you could rotate tires, it might help a bit,

They installed a new driver's side tie rod, and did an alignment, it was still pulling the same to the right.

What else could cause the right side pull? Does it have to be a loose tie rod, and would the tie rod be on the side that is pulling?

deltaolds
08-20-2008, 01:17 PM
it might not be a tie rod at all, it could be bent suspention compnent, could even be ripped belt inside the tire, lots of things, do this switch left tire with the right see if it changes anything.

Arbiter
08-20-2008, 05:54 PM
it might not be a tie rod at all, it could be bent suspention compnent, could even be ripped belt inside the tire, lots of things, do this switch left tire with the right see if it changes anything.
I swapped front and rear, and it is perfect now.

I have never heard of such an extreme case of a tire pulling like that, I will be replacing the tires very soon.

Alchemist
08-21-2008, 05:47 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=69097

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=69136

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=69146

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=69151

RapidTransit3
08-21-2008, 05:07 PM
Tires,radial tires can develop what's called radial pull,and i know it for a fact,as i have a car that has one tire,that has a slight radial pull.If the tires are on the same side of the car for TOO long,apparently the belts or whatever get "set" and starts pulling off to one side.Some say it is from the "crown" built into the roads.There is one particular tire that will pull to whichever side of the vehicle it's on,when it's on the front.Take it and put it on the opposite side front,and it will pull that way.Take the tire to the rear of the car,pull is gone,gone,gone.And yes,i have carefully inspected that one tire,many times,and it is fine,and does not vibrate.Radials are supposed to be rotated where the NON DRIVE tires are moved in an X pattern,and the drive wheels moved straight forward or back,staying on the same side.Then the next rotation,what were the drive wheels,get X 'ed.Some will argue this,and tire shops,because of some kind of liability,won't rotate tires using the X pattern.I even have a 1973 factory Chassis Service Manual,where the spare is thrown into the rotation,lol.

needhelplpease
08-31-2008, 08:51 AM
I was wondering if its possible to replace a manual transmission with an automatic transmission. This is a serious question and a question that some of my more car "savy" friends can't answer.

RapidTransit3
08-31-2008, 01:59 PM
I have done a conversion in a fairly new at the time Mustang with a 3.8 ltr V6 and a manual 5 speed trans.The owner had injured her back in a car accident in a different vehicle where she was a passenger,and could no longer drive the stick shift because of the pain to her back when pushing in the clutch pedal.I changed it over,start to finish from manual to automatic.The trans i installed was the AOD 4 speed overdrive trans.It was a HUGE job.Very time and labor intensive.My best recommendation for the change over is to have a complete donor car,same year,same model,same engine,just auto trans, sitting right beside the receiver car.You did not state what vehicle,and if you are referring to a Honda or Acura,yes it is possible on those cars too,but the automatic trans would require the complete harness and computer from a donor car.Again,HUGE job.In my opinion,you would be better off just buying what you want.

overtake
09-01-2008, 02:02 AM
It is possible but like RapidTransit3 said, it is a big job and time consuming not to mention the expenses involved. I think it's better to buy a car that is already automatic transmission

j.custo
09-03-2008, 01:09 PM
wats up fellas and young ladies. i have a problem with a 1997 mit eclipse gst 2.0 turbo automatic. I'm fixing this car for a friend and am pretty stuck.

Symptoms: Battery is 3months old and was replaced b.c. other one had no charge. (maybe she left lights on, maybe this is related to problem now, dont know) Recently the car's lights would dim and car would stall while coming to a stop. Battery was jumped 5 or so times in one day just to get it from point A to B (not my recommendation. definitely didnt do the battery any good). Car comes to me and I changed alternator, alternator belt, and also did a tune up with just spark plugs, spark plug wires b.c. gas filter did not want to cooperate. (shitty location and not that many tools. stripped the nut a little bit so when i bought flare wrench it wouldnt fit). Any good ideas on how to take that off pls let me know.

I removed power steering pump to help get to alternator, and removed fan to help pull alternator out, removed battery, took top fuel line off gas filter then put line back b.c. gas filter wasnt ready to come off. That is everything I have done to the car. The power steering belt and alternator belt are nice and tight with no slack nor play.

I brought back the replacement alternator b.c. while the car was running my best reading was about 12.5 across the battery. The battery reads 11.9 after the car sits for a while or overnight. I changed alternators and this time new belt and the reading across battery was 13.9. Drove the car around and retested now its 12.3-12.5 again!! Car sometimes idles very very low when coming to a stop. Check engine light has been on for a while and supposedly bad o2 sensor.

I am thinking it could possibly be that the voltage regulator is shot? ECU needs to be replaced? Just a thought.. Figure I'd check out this forum b.c. ECU replacement is costly and I'm not confident it is the ECU.

Thank you for anywho who steps up to the challenge 'the car from hell'...

RapidTransit3
09-03-2008, 03:06 PM
The voltage regulator is built into the alternator.Highly doubt the computer is bad.Check and make sure the battery is the correct battery for the car,not too tall and shorting out on the underside of the hood (you wouldn't believe the things i've seen)13.9 volts is about the correct charging voltage.More than likely there is a bare wire somewhere in the alternator/charging circuit that is grounding out intermittently,causing the alternator or voltage regulator to burn up.It is never good when a power wire shorts to ground.You should also pull the trouble codes out of the computer (check engine light) as this could lead you to the problematic area.

amc91z
09-05-2008, 01:52 PM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=69722


PLEASE HELP!!!

scratchypappy
09-07-2008, 11:57 AM
Hey guys, I've got a 1996 subaru impreza outback/4 cylinder and cant get one of my spark plugs threads to catch. Crank it up and it sounds like a lawnmower. Any suggestions?

RapidTransit3
09-07-2008, 02:23 PM
Try a different spark plug,do not force it.Also can try a very little dab of antiseize compound,or dielectric grease.Plugs should be changed cold not hot,especially with aluminum heads.You have a higher risk of cross threading when changing plugs on a hot engine.If all else fails,use a thread chaser to clean the existing threads,just don't cut new ones.

Alchemist
09-09-2008, 05:48 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=69969

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=69981

Alchemist
09-11-2008, 05:41 AM
thursday

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=69981

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70047

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70097

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70130

Alchemist
09-17-2008, 05:00 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=69981

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70097

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=63446

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70319

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70347

Alchemist
09-19-2008, 05:26 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70319

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70420

Alchemist
09-23-2008, 05:46 AM
Tuesday:


http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70655

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70664

needhelplpease
09-23-2008, 03:03 PM
Hi I'm trying to buy a tail light for my car but the website I found lists 2 tail lights for sell one that says "tail light driver side QTR MTD" and "tail light driver side LID MTD" can someone PLEASE tell me the difference between the two???

jdnossaman
09-24-2008, 02:01 AM
I have a 2001 saturn sc2 the battery will go dead if it sits over night. the battery was replaced last year. it will hold a good charge for sometime and it charges up really fast. what do u think it is or what could i do to try to diagnose it

Alchemist
09-24-2008, 07:08 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70725

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70731

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70762

teamhendrick08
09-24-2008, 02:38 PM
Yes,My horn on my car stopped working along with the cruise control.I was thinking it could be a relay switch maybe?Please help,Thankyou!!!

Alchemist
09-25-2008, 05:49 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70725

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70793

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70762

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70805

Alchemist
09-27-2008, 04:40 AM
saturday


http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70875

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70869

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70725

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70762

MickWolf16
09-28-2008, 04:06 PM
Hey, nothing is wrong with my car, i just had a quick question. Is it bad for the transmission to drive an AT in Low on flat roads without towing? i know it's bad on gas, but i was just wondering.

Alchemist
09-30-2008, 05:48 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70984

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70977

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=70975

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71031

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71034

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71043

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71045

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71047

Alchemist
09-30-2008, 05:49 AM
Hey, nothing is wrong with my car, i just had a quick question. Is it bad for the transmission to drive an AT in Low on flat roads without towing? i know it's bad on gas, but i was just wondering.
why would you?

Carlyle
10-01-2008, 06:12 AM
I would start with the easy stuff. First, test your alternator. Check your spark plugs too. It almost sounds electrical, but could be a fuel problem.

Second, your car has been tuned, correct? That will start throwing a monkey wrench in there, as it could also be related to that.

Just thought I'd throw in my 2 cents, since I am bored too. :)


I agree totally, check the common stuff first before you start worrying!

99hondaaccord
10-01-2008, 12:13 PM
Hi I'm trying to buy a tail light for my car but the website I found lists 2 tail lights for sell one that says "tail light driver side QTR MTD" and "tail light driver side LID MTD" can someone PLEASE tell me the difference between the two???
http://www.infinitihelp.com/Infiniti/Models/2001/G20/2001rear.jpg
This is your car, yes???
I assume the "QTR" stands for "quarter" as in the quarterfender and "LID" means the trunk. So do you want the light for the fender or the trunk???

Alchemist
10-08-2008, 06:44 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71370

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71285

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71351

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71376

crimson487
10-10-2008, 11:11 PM
alrite ive had my car in the backyard 4 the past 8yrs and wen i turn the ignition nothing happens
i kno the battery is dead
but i wud like to kno wat other parts that would need 2 be changed and approximately how much it wud cost?

RapidTransit3
10-11-2008, 07:07 AM
8 years....gasoline has varnished and is NO good,all the rubber is now no good,belts,hoses,etc.Spark plugs should be replaced,all fluids should be replaced...brake fluid,anti freeze,eng oil,trans fluid.Tires are dry rotted and unsafe.Common sense stuff.

crimson487
10-11-2008, 09:36 AM
heres a image of the engine
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2reo6zb&s=4

Orange Crush
10-11-2008, 10:03 AM
I have a 2006 Dodge Charger R/T and for the last couple weeks you can hear a rattling noise as you accelerate and I dont know what it is and the engine light will come on for a day and then go back off. Just wondering if you have any ideas on what it is?

Alchemist
10-13-2008, 06:06 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71596

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71595

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71571

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71589

Alchemist
10-14-2008, 05:53 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71595

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71571

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71589

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71627

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71626

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?p=708200#post708200

Alchemist
10-16-2008, 05:35 AM
*


http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71688

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71713

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71714

MsRae
10-16-2008, 06:20 AM
*


http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71688

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71713

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71714


FYI - Link #2 is advice for intregue owners - not needed help.

Alchemist
10-16-2008, 05:52 PM
FYI - Link #2 is advice for intregue owners - not needed help.
ah, thanks.

that's good, because Intrigues are pieces of shyt.

Alchemist
10-21-2008, 07:10 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71893

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71937

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71938


http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71752

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71765

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71812

Alchemist
10-22-2008, 08:02 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71970

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71987

Alchemist
10-23-2008, 07:36 AM
thursday:



http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72007

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71987

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71998

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72014

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72046

Money Talk
10-23-2008, 12:27 PM
on the front of my car a little on the right side its kind of leaking this green clear looking liquid, what is it? whats wrong with it? is it serious? how much to fix?

thanks

Deano
10-23-2008, 12:29 PM
Anti-freeze. You need to check your radiator cap when the engine is cool. Make sure it's tight. If that fixes it, you're good. If not, you may have a crack in your radiator. For your car, a new radiator should be around $150.....

Money Talk
10-23-2008, 12:39 PM
Ok thanks the radiator has a cap saying 'please keep tight' right?



and is it worth make a dodge neon 1999 with 155k miles worth modifying it with racing stuff like turbo, spoiler, etc..

Deano
10-23-2008, 01:22 PM
Yes.

No.

rice400
10-23-2008, 02:04 PM
first off a spoiler is not racing stuff. also, please dont modify your neon or you will be laughed at unmercifully by the people on this forum(including me)

btw, if you put a turbo on a neon, it would blow the engine pretty quickly. they aren't made to handle stuff like that

mach3
10-25-2008, 12:53 AM
Hi,

I have a question regarding a Toyota from 2000. When turning the key to start position, a single click sound comes from somewhere in the engine. The engine does not start (does not even try to - basically nothing happens other than the clicking sound).

Afterwards i turn the key to off then to start again and then the engine starts like nothing has happened i.e. in normal way.

The hifi and lights and other electrical stuff in the car is functioning with no problems.

Is the starter motor broke?

Best regards

porsche911
10-25-2008, 01:11 AM
Try checking your blinker fluid.

Alchemist
10-25-2008, 05:17 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72081


http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72092


http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72089

RapidTransit3
10-25-2008, 06:19 AM
Hi,

I have a question regarding a Toyota from 2000. When turning the key to start position, a single click sound comes from somewhere in the engine. The engine does not start (does not even try to - basically nothing happens other than the clicking sound).

Afterwards i turn the key to off then to start again and then the engine starts like nothing has happened i.e. in normal way.

The hifi and lights and other electrical stuff in the car is functioning with no problems.

Is the starter motor broke?

Best regards
It sounds quite likely that the starter solenoid mounted ON the starter is giving troubles

mach3
10-26-2008, 03:38 PM
It sounds quite likely that the starter solenoid mounted ON the starter is giving troubles

Ok, thanks for that.

Alchemist
10-27-2008, 07:40 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72179

Blayer
10-27-2008, 06:55 PM
I've noticed that every time that I steer to the left I hear a whining noise coming from the front left part of the suspension.

rice400
10-28-2008, 07:44 AM
is the tire rubbing on something? maybe u need to add some power steering fluid

Renzo
10-29-2008, 03:48 AM
i need help. i have 97 cavalier. my Check engine light is on. the whole engine literally moves back and forth when i am at a red light.(jerks) My MPG is poor. I'll go 20 miles and 2 gallons of gas are literally gone. i have to push really light real quick on the gas and then hit it again real hard for it to move after the red light. i replaced the Cadillac converter. Spark plugs. and even a new muffler system. (Still the same.) i got it diagnosed and nothing showed up on there system.

rice400
10-29-2008, 07:38 AM
sounds like your engine is misfiring. mine did that at stop signs and it turned out to be a vaccum leak from the pcv valve hose and the fuel pump was crapping out. i fixed both, haven't had problems since

Renzo
10-29-2008, 11:33 AM
i did forget to say i did replace a new fuel a month or so before this accorded. So, i hope its not another crappy fuel pump. i got it brand new. i'll check into the vacuum leak from the pcv valve hose and see how the outcome goes.


Thanks!

rice400
10-29-2008, 09:50 PM
no problem

also, may a bad oxygen sensor

99hondaaccord
10-29-2008, 10:18 PM
lol...this page is full of fail. Try actually performing some diagnosis instead of just throwing parts at it. Pull some trouble codes from the ECU and give us a short description.

porsche911
10-29-2008, 10:47 PM
i need help. i have 97 cavalier. my Check engine light is on. the whole engine literally moves back and forth when i am at a red light.(jerks) My MPG is poor. I'll go 20 miles and 2 gallons of gas are literally gone. i have to push really light real quick on the gas and then hit it again real hard for it to move after the red light. i replaced the Cadillac converter. Spark plugs. and even a new muffler system. (Still the same.) i got it diagnosed and nothing showed up on there system.
:lol: :rotf:

OMG, that made me laugh SO hard. :lol:

It's a "catalytic converter", if it's what you were talking about, you'd be driving a Caddy :D

Alchemist
10-31-2008, 09:01 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72289

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72261

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72263

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72269

RapidTransit3
11-01-2008, 05:48 AM
"Cadillac" convertor...classic...like the "Brivation"...and the "Sellenoid"

RapidTransit3
11-01-2008, 05:51 AM
If the CEL is illuminated,ummmm this is just an after thought,but maybe try repairing any DTC's..(Diagnostic Trouble Codes)....by running the diagnostic route for each DTC.

rice400
11-01-2008, 07:05 AM
hook up a fuel pressure gauge and see what the pressure is...

Alchemist
11-05-2008, 05:27 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72450

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72451

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72454

Alchemist
11-06-2008, 05:23 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72486

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72499

Alchemist
11-07-2008, 05:45 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72450


http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72534


http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72486

shiftlesstracer
11-09-2008, 10:03 AM
1992 Mercury Tracer LTS (Ford Escort GT or LX?), 1.8 l engine (Mazda engine), 4 speed auto tranny, 60K miles.

Can drive 1-20 miles and all is well, tranny shifts fine. Sooner or later though it always goes into "safe mode", third gear. Can still manually select first.

Have dropped the pan, changed filter, magnet had just normal fuzz on it. I've reseated the two electrical connectors on the trans, they looked clean, no change.

Mechanically tranny seems fine, but the brain ain't right. Can't find a speed sensor but that my guess.

Any ideas? Thanks, s.t.

RapidTransit3
11-09-2008, 10:25 AM
Trans model is a 4EAT-F which is also known as a 1 pan ECAT or baby ECAT.I've rebuilt plenty over the years,and that trans is a totally electronic and controlled trans.With such,Diagnostic Trouble Codes must be pulled from the PCM regardless if the Check Engine Light is on or not.If there are NO DTC's,then it is likely the problem is internal inside the trans.If there ARE DTC's,repair them,and go from there.It could be something externally mounted on the transmission,like a PRNDL sensor,which tells the PCM which gear mode the driver has selected,it could be speed sensors,or shift solenoids.This is why it is necessary to pull DTC's from the PCM.Your year model (1992) is Pre OBD2 which means places like Auto Zone won't pull codes for free,as they do not have the required connector for your car.Likely,you will have to pay a shop to pull DTC's.

shiftlesstracer
11-09-2008, 01:49 PM
Thanks!

I can add a little more detail. No check engine light, a Subaru shop did try and read the codes but said they saw nothing. (same shop that told me both the rear disc calibers were "frozen" when they just needed to be screwed in to R&R pads.... hard to get good help?) I've had this car for three years, it does wear/yellow trany fluid quicker than it should. Kinda assume any local trany shop will say "need a rebuild, $2K" but I might try. Doesn't sound like there is any easy stuff left to try. Nice little car but not worth even a $1K job.

You notice this most when it drop from 4th to 3rd at 70mph, can happen hot or cold,1 mile or 20 miles, doesn't seem like anything triggers it that I can see. Once it happens it never "resets" until the car is turned of at least briefly.

I'm an old C4-C6 era shadetree mech, work with electronics but elect trans are new to me. Thanks for trying, s.t.

Alchemist
11-11-2008, 05:33 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72680

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72595

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72534

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72486

RapidTransit3
11-11-2008, 03:37 PM
Thanks!

I can add a little more detail. No check engine light, a Subaru shop did try and read the codes but said they saw nothing. (same shop that told me both the rear disc calibers were "frozen" when they just needed to be screwed in to R&R pads.... hard to get good help?) I've had this car for three years, it does wear/yellow trany fluid quicker than it should. Kinda assume any local trany shop will say "need a rebuild, $2K" but I might try. Doesn't sound like there is any easy stuff left to try. Nice little car but not worth even a $1K job.

You notice this most when it drop from 4th to 3rd at 70mph, can happen hot or cold,1 mile or 20 miles, doesn't seem like anything triggers it that I can see. Once it happens it never "resets" until the car is turned of at least briefly.

I'm an old C4-C6 era shadetree mech, work with electronics but elect trans are new to me. Thanks for trying, s.t.
Just a note on pulling codes from the '92 Tracer,doing so requires a scan tool that is Pre OBD2 capable,meaning the scan tool comes with a suitcase full of ALL the different connectors for ALL the different vehicles of that age/year.If i'm not mistaken,your car will require the Mazda 1 connector that is under the hood on the driver's side.IF you are confident there are NO trouble codes,and no malfunctioning sensors such as the PRNDL,or speed sensors,then it is likely an internal problem.These transmissions are also prone to connector problems at the trans,so DTC's or lack of will play a role in determining the problem.Falling out of gear at speed reminds me of a defective PRNDL.Good luck.

shiftlesstracer
11-11-2008, 07:04 PM
PRNDL on these is just a switch, no cable or linkage? I drove the car about 50 miles today, stuck in "safe mode" 3rd gear pretty much the whole time. From a stop I can put it in L, get moving and shift to D or OD and get a nice clean shift into 3rd. While driving I moved the shifter from OD to D maybe 6-8 times (trying to make a switch contact, see if anything would happen) but no change.

Had a weird run in with the Subaru shop today that said they had checked for codes, bet it's a 50-50 bet they tried to read codes at all.

I'll poke around it some more, still hope I'll find a cheap easy fix.

RapidTransit3
11-11-2008, 07:16 PM
I call it the PRNDL just a short generic abbreviation while the technical name for it is the "Manual Lever Position Sensor" or MLPS.If you follow the shift cable,and i mean by that the gear selector cable, out to the transmission,underneath the linkage will be a black plastic sensor bolted to the trans case.This sensor literally tells the PCM what gear the trans is in.So if the sensor is malfunctioning,or incorrectly adjusted,for example,it could be telling the PCM that it is in 3rd gear,and so that's what the PCM sees,so accordingly,it commands 3rd gear at 70 mph while it should have stayed in 4th gear all along.That is just a hypothetical possibility.I have seen that on lots of Taurus and Windstar products.

shiftlesstracer
11-11-2008, 08:13 PM
not quite relevant to my problem, but looks like a useful web site, transonline.com

http://www.transonline.com/transDigest/magazines/1998-12/Technically%20Speaking/index.html

Alchemist
11-12-2008, 05:45 AM
Wednesday:



http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72718

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72680

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72595

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72534

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72486

Alchemist
11-13-2008, 07:35 AM
Thursday:





http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72746

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72753

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72785

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72777

Alchemist
11-17-2008, 07:40 AM
Monday:


http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72966

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72973


http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72924

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72923

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72916

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72777

msymills
11-17-2008, 01:22 PM
Hello. I am new here and I have a quick question please. Friday I left the dome light on in my 2005 scion xa, I found this out Saturday around 1:30pm. I started it, it started so I shut it off and left it alone. The next day I backed it out of the garage, my battery light is on, my ABS light is on, and my speedomater wont move, the gas gage wont move, and the RPG tact won't move. I put the car back in the garage shut it off and now it wont start at all. Do I need a new battery? Does this one just need charging or is it maybe something else all together?

Thank you much,
Missy :confused:

MsRae
11-17-2008, 01:54 PM
Hello Missy -

Do you get anything when you try to start it? Does it try to crank but just not start or does it just not do anything at all?

doubled
11-18-2008, 07:55 AM
I have an all wheel drive ML Mercedes.
I need to change the front 2 tires BAD!!!
I know I have been told I must replace all of them at the same time but I don't have a ton of money to throw at tires right now with the holidays around the corner. Can I transfer my rear tires to the front and just put the new ones on the rear for a month or two? Max milage I would drive would be 2,000 miles during this time. I need the honest truth on if it would really damage my car or not during this time.
Thank you.

msymills
11-18-2008, 10:51 AM
It started, but the lights I mentioned before were on and then my radio started blinking on and off. I actually took the battery and had it tested and it tested bad so I had to buy a new battery. Thank you for your reply though I am glad someone was listening.

99hondaaccord
11-18-2008, 01:04 PM
I have an all wheel drive ML Mercedes.
I need to change the front 2 tires BAD!!!
I know I have been told I must replace all of them at the same time but I don't have a ton of money to throw at tires right now with the holidays around the corner. Can I transfer my rear tires to the front and just put the new ones on the rear for a month or two? Max milage I would drive would be 2,000 miles during this time. I need the honest truth on if it would really damage my car or not during this time.
Thank you.
If the tires are directional. If not, you want them rotated in this fashion:

1. Back tires to front on the same sides
2. FL to RR
3. RF to LR

This service should be performed regularly to wear the tires evenly and extend their overall life.

MsRae
11-18-2008, 01:32 PM
It started, but the lights I mentioned before were on and then my radio started blinking on and off. I actually took the battery and had it tested and it tested bad so I had to buy a new battery. Thank you for your reply though I am glad someone was listening.

Glad to hear it started and all is good. Oh, and, your welcome!:biggrin:

Alchemist
11-19-2008, 05:23 AM
cutlass shutting off
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73055

buick screeching
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73051

intake plenum gaskets
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73029

accord instrument panel
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72924

dodge ram follower
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72923

rsx gauges not reading correctly
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72777

blinking daytime running lamps
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72746

Alchemist
11-26-2008, 05:36 AM
ignition switch
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73229

speed sensor location
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73234

window regulator
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73326

3800 intake
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72595

hyundai trouble
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73369

f150 fuse
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73371

Alchemist
12-02-2008, 05:37 AM
12/2/08


http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73445

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73517

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73594

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72966

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73610

Alchemist
12-03-2008, 05:50 AM
12/3/08




http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73517

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73594

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=72966

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73639

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73663

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73665

mitsudriver
12-05-2008, 08:12 AM
Just a quick question. With my mustang, whenever the clutch pedal is not pressed in, there is a whining noise or squeal, almost like a belt needs adjusted, but it only happens when the pedal is not pressed in. As soon as i press the pedal in the car doesnt make the sound at all. I read that i may need to just get the clutch adjusted but wanted to get further info to see what may need to be done. I dont have any problems getting into gear or anything, but its just that noise and i dont want something bad to happen if it needs taken care of, thanks.

MsRae
12-05-2008, 09:37 AM
I would say it is either your throwout or pilot bearing (I can't remember which one makes the noise when the pedal is out, but I think it is the pilot bearing). I would have it fixed. The bearing starts to make noise because it is getting friction. It will eventually cause some serios problems if it is not repaired. Unfortunately, this is a pretty extensive job, so if you have it done, you might as well get the clutch redone (new plate, flywheel turned etc).

Alchemist
12-09-2008, 05:26 AM
legacy rod bearings
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73665

no hot air
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73675

deville fuel pump
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73711

no headlights
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73724

ABS light on
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73782

blower motor inop.
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73776

installing timing belt
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73806

oil in coolant
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73860

cylinder misfire
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73895

Alchemist
12-11-2008, 09:54 AM
oil in coolant
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73860

front driveshaft snapped
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73948

engine dies when shifting into reverse
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=73949

ES 300 transmission
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74028

c0327 error code
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74048

99hondaaccord
12-11-2008, 04:09 PM
I would say it is either your throwout or pilot bearing (I can't remember which one makes the noise when the pedal is out, but I think it is the pilot bearing). I would have it fixed. The bearing starts to make noise because it is getting friction. It will eventually cause some serios problems if it is not repaired. Unfortunately, this is a pretty extensive job, so if you have it done, you might as well get the clutch redone (new plate, flywheel turned etc).
throwout bearing makes sort of grinding noise with the pedal pushed IN. Pilot bearing/bushing makes noise in all gears except direct drive.

titubd
12-12-2008, 06:55 PM
It is very cold now a days here. I do plug in at night. My car would not start with the remote starter in the morning. But i can start it with remote when the negine is warm. What is the reason?

Alchemist
12-16-2008, 11:35 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74110

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74137

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74185

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74205

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74200

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74219

99hondaaccord
12-17-2008, 02:06 PM
It is very cold now a days here. I do plug in at night. My car would not start with the remote starter in the morning. But i can start it with remote when the negine is warm. What is the reason?
Is this an aftermarket remote starter???


RPG tact
LMAO, bwahahaha!!!

porsche911
12-17-2008, 05:43 PM
Rocket propelled grenade? :huh?

Energy jobs
12-22-2008, 08:31 AM
I have a 1996 Subaru legacy. It has 126K miles. My son drives the car and he complained of some clicking noise. Upon examination I found several of the spark plugs loose. I assume this was because my son, after changing the plugs a few months ago, failed to torque them sufficiently. There was evidence of exhaust gasses blowing by (blackened porcelain on plugs). One plug was missing the electrode. After replacing the plug and torque all to about 20 lbs, the engine ran great, no noise at all. After a few days of driving my son complained that there was more noise but worse. He stopped the car and we had it towed home. I checked it and the plugs were fine. I checked the compression thinking perhaps the missing electrode may have gotten stuck in the exhaust valve. Compression was over 150 all around.

99hondaaccord
12-22-2008, 08:52 AM
congratulations.

MsRae
12-22-2008, 08:53 AM
I have a 1996 Subaru legacy. It has 126K miles. My son drives the car and he complained of some clicking noise. Upon examination I found several of the spark plugs loose. I assume this was because my son, after changing the plugs a few months ago, failed to torque them sufficiently. There was evidence of exhaust gasses blowing by (blackened porcelain on plugs). One plug was missing the electrode. After replacing the plug and torque all to about 20 lbs, the engine ran great, no noise at all. After a few days of driving my son complained that there was more noise but worse. He stopped the car and we had it towed home. I checked it and the plugs were fine. I checked the compression thinking perhaps the missing electrode may have gotten stuck in the exhaust valve. Compression was over 150 all around.


Double check the wires. I just did a tune-up on a subaru and the loud clicking noise was caused by a bad wire that was actually sparking to the engine block. Worth a check. If you can, run the car when it is slightly dark to check for any spark that may be jumping.

ThePower
12-28-2008, 03:06 PM
I have a question that hopefully one of you experts can help me on. I am going to be looking at a 2006 Mazda6 i tomorrow. They car has less than 25 K miles on it and there is 19 months / 25 K miles left on the warranty. The dealer is willing to sell the car to me for $9,703.00 after tax, license, and registration. The Carfax is pretty clean and it was a lease vehicle before. I really want this car!!! Is there any reason for me to be concerned that this car is selling almost $5,000.00 below the KBB value? Do you guys think something is wrong with it?

RapidTransit3
12-28-2008, 04:32 PM
The car could be a "flood" car,or was a "lemon" or has some sort of undesirable problems.Have it checked thoroughly by a mechanic you trust or know,and do a more in depth search of the VIN number.There was a Suzuki dealer here,was advertising all the time on the radio....$99 down,$99/month,$99 delivers!!!.Many,many people ended up stuck with $700/month car payments after several months,had the cars repo'ed,ruined their credit,the dealer went out of business,and is being sued........ongoing.And this was a "legitimate" Suzuki dealer,not some "Buy here,pay here" shady used car lot.Be wary.

ThePower
12-28-2008, 05:02 PM
Well, like I said, the Carfax checks out: the car has been owned while in Michigan and the dealer explains that the car has been on the lot for some time now and he wants to sell, thus the price. Also since it has a bumper to bumper and powertrain warranty, it seems like a safer bet than most used cars these days. Compound all his with the state of the economy, could it be that they are willing to sell this car because business has dried up? Thoughts?

Alchemist
01-01-2009, 09:15 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74665

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74679

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74704

Alchemist
01-02-2009, 05:08 AM
new. 1/2/2009

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74756

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74757


http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74764

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74773

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74769

Kemo
01-05-2009, 08:11 AM
2004 Suzuki XL-7 some reason the airbags light keep popping on and i have no idea what would cause an airbag light to turn on.

and i need to get the brakes fixed was wondering if you had an estimate on the cost cause im sure its been driven down to the rotor...

Alchemist
01-06-2009, 07:02 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74756

stalls in gear
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74781

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74803

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74840

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74839

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74908

ajbowers
01-09-2009, 11:22 PM
I have a 1973 Mustang, it was driving perfectly fine, until i went over a speed bump and around a corner, at which time the car began to sputter and all the electrical in the car flickered and then i lost all electrical and the car completely died. When I went to crank it over again it cranks over the engine maybe once or twice and then dies and i have to turn the key all the way back to off in order to try again and it does the same thing, I know this is a electrical problem because as I turn on my headlights or windshield wipers it does the exact same thing, comes on for a few seconds and then dies. Now if i leave my key in the start position, about every 10 seconds it gives a little surge of electricity for a split second, and the car will turn over once. and continue to turn over once every 10 seconds. Now I am thinking it is the starter solenoid switch because everything that I have wired before that to the battery works just fine (stereo, hazards so on) I have looked around on the internet but I have yet to find the same exact problem, any ideas would really be appreciated...

MsRae
01-09-2009, 11:31 PM
I don't think it is a starter solenoid. It sounds like you might have shorted the battery (loose battery + bump + turn = contact with fender and a short). It could be that it fried the battery but I'm not certain. Try having you battery tested first. You can have it tested for free at almost any parts store.

ajbowers
01-09-2009, 11:43 PM
but if i had fried the battery would the stereo and hazards still work? cause i thought if the battery is dead you are up the creek without a paddle or does it not draw enough current?

MsRae
01-09-2009, 11:47 PM
but if i had fried the battery would the stereo and hazards still work? cause i thought if the battery is dead you are up the creek without a paddle or does it not draw enough current?


The radio and signals/hazards to not draw enough current. They take only a small amount. The starter takes a lot of power to start the car, as well as the headlights and/or wipers. I think you mentioned the headlights and wipers would also cause everything to go dead right?

ajbowers
01-09-2009, 11:57 PM
yeah the headlights and wipers do make it die, but that short time that they are on they dont seem dim or weak at all like its low on juice you know? it might be the battery, you might be very right, but i mean i just put a new one in there like 3 months ago. And i replaced the battery cables and terminals while i was in there, and put the rubber covers over the terminals felt pads, the little lub that comes with it and everything. i try and do it right the first time.

MsRae
01-10-2009, 12:02 AM
yeah the headlights and wipers do make it die, but that short time that they are on they dont seem dim or weak at all like its low on juice you know? it might be the battery, you might be very right, but i mean i just put a new one in there like 3 months ago. And i replaced the battery cables and terminals while i was in there, and put the rubber covers over the terminals felt pads, the little lub that comes with it and everything. i try and do it right the first time.


Don't replace it... have it tested first. But yeah, it sounds like the culprit. Make sure you have strong connections as well. Just take a sec to make sure they are really tight and there is no corrosion on the terminals.

Spaz_Bmx
01-10-2009, 12:02 AM
Surprised no ones mention checking the alternator...

ajbowers
01-10-2009, 12:06 AM
man that sucks, if it the battery. yeah i will have it tested for sure. would having my car jumped by another be another way to test this?

MsRae
01-10-2009, 12:06 AM
Could be alternator as well, but the information leading up to the problem doesn't really go with it. Still, yes, alternator is a possibility as well. I would start with testing the battery though, because that can be easily removed and brought to be tested.

ajbowers
01-10-2009, 12:11 AM
yeah i doubt it would be alternator, ill test the battery, should i test the solenoid as well?

Spaz_Bmx
01-10-2009, 12:12 AM
Never know, you could be overlooking something by not checking...

MsRae
01-10-2009, 12:13 AM
I don't know if solenoids can be tested. It is a relatively inexpensive part, you may just want to get a new one, but bring the old one anyway and see if they can test it. Worth the effort IMO.

MsRae
01-10-2009, 12:15 AM
Good luck, let us know how it turns out.

I'm out for tonight.

MsRae
01-10-2009, 12:15 AM
double post

ajbowers
01-10-2009, 12:22 AM
yeah you can get them tested at autozone i know cause that was the nearest part store growing up by my house, and i have replaced everything in the electrical system just so you know. I guess ill just check those things out and then let you guys know how it turns out. And people wonder why i have grey hair already....

Alchemist
01-10-2009, 04:08 AM
gmc van ignition
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74756

stalls in gear
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74781

pushrod length
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=74803

surging truck
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75081

heater problem
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?p=759058#post759058

ajbowers
01-10-2009, 01:28 PM
lmao! you guys are gonna laugh at me, I did my annual carb cleaning yesterday and because i reattached the carb in the dark i forgot to attach the ground of my electric choke. this apparently lets the car run for 2 minutes and then it completely dies. Saw it as soon as I opened the hood this morning. Never forget to look for the obvious! Man do i feel dumb. Im just glad it was a simple wire connection. phew!

rice400
01-10-2009, 02:33 PM
lmao! you guys are gonna laugh at me, I did my annual carb cleaning yesterday and because i reattached the carb in the dark i forgot to attach the ground of my electric choke. this apparently lets the car run for 2 minutes and then it completely dies. Saw it as soon as I opened the hood this morning. Never forget to look for the obvious! Man do i feel dumb. Im just glad it was a simple wire connection. phew!


its ok, happens to the best of us. it happens to me several times a day :)

MsRae
01-10-2009, 04:22 PM
lmao! you guys are gonna laugh at me, I did my annual carb cleaning yesterday and because i reattached the carb in the dark i forgot to attach the ground of my electric choke. this apparently lets the car run for 2 minutes and then it completely dies. Saw it as soon as I opened the hood this morning. Never forget to look for the obvious! Man do i feel dumb. Im just glad it was a simple wire connection. phew!


LOL. Thanks for the update though! Now I have another thing to add to my "check this" list :biggrin:

Alchemist
01-14-2009, 12:07 PM
Blazer DRL's
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75138

fuel problems
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75222

gauges reading improperly
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75243

electrical issue:
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75292

Alchemist
01-15-2009, 02:14 PM
and

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75332

Alchemist
01-21-2009, 04:49 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75555

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75488

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75452

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75453

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75456

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75463

Alchemist
01-23-2009, 04:54 AM
sunbird cracnkshaft/internals
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75463


props to RT3

Alchemist
01-25-2009, 06:43 AM
skylark thermostat
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75685

honda swap, no start
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75718

electrical issue
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75698

flashing ses light
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75728

ceruleansoul
01-25-2009, 01:43 PM
Here's what happened:

I drive an early 90's Buick Park Avenue. (I think '91) I went down to my car and realized the battery was completely dead. This wasn't surprising because just about everything in my car is electric and I'd felt like my car wasn't turning over as quickly as it normally does, which someone told me could be the battery.
Anyway, we grabbed some jumper cables and tried to jump my car but there was no response whatsoever. My car made no noise.
So we replaced the battery and tried to jump it again. This time the car battery charged because all of my interior lights turned on, and the door dinged when I opened it.. but the engine wouldn't turn over. It instead made a fast ticking noise.
Any ideas?

Bridgette:confused:

rice400
01-25-2009, 02:50 PM
well if its a new battery u put it then u shouldn't have to jump start it.

check to be sure that the battery cables are on tight, there shouldn't be any play in them.

RapidTransit3
01-25-2009, 04:01 PM
Sounds like the battery you installed was weak,low on power.The proper way to hook up for a jumpstart is positive to positive of course,negative to negative last,then have the owner of the other car get in their car,and rev the engine up to about 2500 RPM's,and hold it there for 10-20 minutes.This allows your "new" weak battery to charge up before trying to start the engine.While your battery is charging,keep everything electrical OFF in your vehicle,including the ignition switch.If you have a handheld volt meter available,you can check battery standing voltage with everything off,before jumpstarting it,and a good battery should read minimum 12.4 volts,most of the top experts say 12.6 volts minimum.If it's lower than that,then the new battery is discharged also.Charging voltage at the battery,engine running with a good functioning alternator,belts,and regulator should be minimum 13-13.5 volts,most will read in the 14 volt area,above 15-15.5 volts is too high.

Alchemist
01-26-2009, 05:54 AM
skylark thermostat
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75685

honda swap, no start
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75718

electrical issue
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75698



blend door
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75751

no start when engine warm
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75753

TwiSteM_Ap
01-28-2009, 02:44 PM
hey guys... a newbie here...i have a question. i have a power switch running from my battery to my switch then to my distributor. this allows me to start my vehicle. without the switch on, my vehicle will just crank but no fire. i want to add a remote start to my vehicle. do you know what i would do to do this.?? please help! lol thanks in advanced

TwiSteM Ap

RapidTransit3
01-28-2009, 04:04 PM
hey guys... a newbie here...i have a question. i have a power switch running from my battery to my switch then to my distributor. this allows me to start my vehicle. without the switch on, my vehicle will just crank but no fire. i want to add a remote start to my vehicle. do you know what i would do to do this.?? please help! lol thanks in advanced

TwiSteM Ap
Is your car carbureted or fuel injected?I'm thinking 1981 year model is carb'ed,and a remote start won't work on a carb car unless you also install a robot to push the gas pedal once or twice.Actually,instead of a robot,you could install an electric plunger on the carb linkage,but most all carb cars i've driven needed a little more than just depressing the gas pedal once or twice,you have to keep "feathering" the throttle,or have a very high,high idle.As far as the remote start,you would have to READ the instructions with the remote start.

TwiSteM_Ap
01-28-2009, 06:22 PM
Is your car carbureted or fuel injected?I'm thinking 1981 year model is carb'ed,and a remote start won't work on a carb car unless you also install a robot to push the gas pedal once or twice.Actually,instead of a robot,you could install an electric plunger on the carb linkage,but most all carb cars i've driven needed a little more than just depressing the gas pedal once or twice,you have to keep "feathering" the throttle,or have a very high,high idle.As far as the remote start,you would have to READ the instructions with the remote start.


well thank you for responding so quickly.. i've actually done a lot of modifying to this car. my oldsmobile actually has a Chevy 350 engine in it... carburetor yes... but it has the electric choke. i think it takes about 2 pumps and kicks right over no problem at all.. so do you think this is impossible to happen?

TwiSteM_Ap
01-28-2009, 06:34 PM
ive looked at a site that says they have a carb kit that will work with remote starts...

http://www.designtech-intl.com/faqs.asp?answer=16


read number 16... what do you think?

RapidTransit3
01-28-2009, 07:21 PM
Well,they're saying in "Case three" that if you don't have to touch the gas at all to start a carbureted car cold in the morning.Is that the case with your vehicle?Only you know that.Myself,i have never seen a carb'ed car with a functioning choke,electric or otherwise that WOULD start cold without pumping the gas pedal at least once.Most all chokes i know of will ONLY engage if the gas pedal is depressed.The reason for this is a mechanical lockout UNTIL the gas pedal is depressed.Regardless of all that,if you wanted it to work bad enough,fabricating would be in order.I know personally from experince in a drag race car,many racers running race built PowerGlide transmissions utilize an air,or electric solenoid that plunges the shifter forward into high gear when commanded to do so by an RPM chip that triggers off the tachometer/ignition.If one was adept at fabricating,a bracket could be built,solenoid mounted,and plunger adjusted at the gas pedal linkage assembly to depress the gas pedal via electric solenoid at the same moment the remote start is activated.Problem solved,but fab skills required.

Mat
01-28-2009, 09:58 PM
SPECIAL NOTE FOR THIS THREAD

Jayd... ok fine... YourcarFTL and i, while on campus (he doesnt live on campus)
have access to Alldata

if you dont know what Alldata is, it will blow your mind. Need to know the electrical connection number from the whatchamacallet that goes to the thingamajig? yep, i can find it



year, make, model, engine, ill have something in seconds.


just throwin it out there for all members


once again, this is only an on campus thing. its the way our IP works on campus, i dont get it at home. the library here pays for it.

so if im on campus, which is pretty much anytime other than a long weekand, or summer/ non college months, i can get info for you

Deano
01-28-2009, 10:13 PM
Sweet. Definitely gonna use it you if I need you, then.

RapidTransit3
01-29-2009, 05:55 AM
I have AllData at work,but the boss freaks out if you look something up on it not company/work related.

hottcarl
01-29-2009, 06:47 AM
Hello everyone

My car (2004 Cavalier) is making a loud humming noise at around 45-55 MPH. It quiets down past 55, but that could just be wind noise making it seem quieter.

If I'm going in that speed range, if I turn the steering wheel to the left it gets louder, and if I turn the wheel to the right it goes away completely. The vehicle's alignment seems to be fine

Any ideas?

EDIT:
I suppose a search can turn up a lot of things :)

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=71603&highlight=humming+noise

Could this be my problem?

RapidTransit3
01-29-2009, 08:54 AM
You have a bad wheel/hub bearing.

Alchemist
01-29-2009, 01:41 PM
blend door
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75751

k1500 master cylinder
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75932

honda swap, no start
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75718

electrical issue
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75698

toyota center differential
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75817

grand am running poorly
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75845

skylark thermostat
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=75685

brandi.lee
01-29-2009, 02:12 PM
my car is a 02 saturn sl1.
it has been 'bucking' and almost always around 30-45 mph does what seems to be slipping gear.
ive gotten the transmition flushed and it still does it.

when its REALLY cold it will slip gear at around 15 mph and almost every time its supposed to change gears.
a few times its done it at 60+

i can tell when its about to rev very high, i feel it in my foot.
i have it almost to a t now.

RapidTransit3
01-29-2009, 04:09 PM
I rebuild automatic transmissions for a living,and have been professionally since 1989.The first step in diagnosing a problem is having the car scanned for diagnostic trouble codes.This trans uses an external PRNDL sensor that when bad,will set a code.The transmission model in your car is the TAAT.I didn't name it,General Motors did.This particular transmission is VERY similar to a Honda automatic trans in design except for the valve body.The valve body is an aluminum chunk of metal with bores and valves and springs that make the shifts happen when commanded to by the vehicle computer.This particular trans is KNOWN for the valve body bores wearing out,causing all kinds of shift and engagement problems.The good news is,the trans does not have to be removed from the vehicle to fix the valve body.The valve body can be removed from under the hood.I have at work,reamers for the TAAT valve body.I literally ream the bores oversize,and install new oversized aftermarket valves.This restores hydraulic integrity to the circuits.You can also order a NEW valve body from General Motors,but the price is alot higher than fixing the one you have.Before performing these procedures,a pressure gauge should be hooked to the transmission hydraulic circuits to verify the valve body problem.Diagnose first,then repair.Good luck.

Deevo
01-29-2009, 05:59 PM
Hey guys,

First time posting here, but hopefully it wont be my last (But hopefully my last because I have a problem). I just want some opinions, and get a few suggestions.

I have a 97 626 4 cyl LX. Stupid me let it run down to under 1/4 of a tank in the middle of the winter, and then decided to fill it up on one of the coldest days of the winter (-25 celcius, so thats about -18F or so, I think). Braught it home, parked it, and 2 days later went outside to start it. It fired up for about 1 second and cut out.

Ive put a bottle of Heet in the gas tank, but that didn't help it start after letting it sit for a day (Duh, because heet is a preventative measure, I know), and I dont have access to a garage to put it in to warm it up, and the temperature here is not set to go above freezing anytime soon.

So, I just want to know if this sounds like a frozen fuel line to everyone else out there, and what you guys think I should do to try and get the gas flowing again if it is. Right now, since the car doesn't have a block heater, I've placed a space heater under the car, and then piled snow around the the entire car to try and keep the heat in to get the temperature up high enough under the car to get rid of the blockage.
Does this sound smart? Or do I just sound like an idiot?

Thanks

brandi.lee
01-29-2009, 06:00 PM
they have scanned it with a computer and havent found anything

srv524
01-30-2009, 07:25 PM
Hello all,
I live around Buffalo, NY, and lately the weather's been in the low teens the past month. I have a 2001 daewoo lanos 4 cyl that I try to start once a week and let it run for 10 minutes. I had parked it in a spot on a decline hill which developed an ice patch, so I got stuck. I ran it for 5 minutes then I was trying to rock it back and forth between drive and reverse, did this for a couple minutes, then just gave up. I tried to go back an hour later and the car would sputter and sound like it wanted to turn over but wouldn't.
Battery is almost a year old; tested it, it was at 80% so I charged it fully then tested it with another battery tester and still good. Alternator good (though that really has no bearing on this problem). The oil and coolant were a little low, so I filled those to the proper levels, but it still won't start.
I'm guessing that the car wasn't properly warmed up and that maybe during the changing gears so rapidly I revved the engine too much (I don't have a tachometer on my car but I assume I wasn't going above 3-4,000 RPM when I was revving it). I was almost on empty earlier in the week, so I filled it up and then let it run for a good 10 minutes....but I'm not sure if this has anything to do with it.
Tried to jumpstart it with another car and nothing still, so I highly doubt it's the battery.

Any suggestions?

RapidTransit3
01-31-2009, 07:45 AM
So you say it won't start,but it will crank over,but you're having to jumpstart the car to GET it to crank over?

srv524
01-31-2009, 02:47 PM
Apparently my terminology sucks.

You turn the key, it revvs up, sputters sputters sputters, wants to start and keeps sputtering until you let go of the key. Won't start with a jumpstart, battery is fine. My uncle (mechanic) said the spark plugs are wet, but I'm thinking fuel pump.....well, at least his theory is safe to test lol

RapidTransit3
01-31-2009, 06:46 PM
Yes,change the spark plugs.It sounds like you don't drive it much,and going out and starting it once a week without actually driving it will.....foul the spark plugs out,causing the engine to misfire.Plugs are cheap and relatively easy to do.

srv524
01-31-2009, 10:36 PM
Gas is almost a full tank. Battery is 1 yr old, at 95% and is fine. Even tried a jump start. It has a healthy crank but won't start. My uncle (mechanic) suggested removing spark plugs and drying them. I removed them, they had oil on them so I got brand new brand new platinum tip spark plugs. They are properly gapped, put them in and car won't start, yet it sounds a bit healthier (if possible).
No snow was around the car, only the ice beneath it. Exhaust is fine.

RapidTransit3
02-01-2009, 04:05 AM
There's 3 things needed for the engine to fire.Spark,fuel,and air.So check spark at the plugs,check fuel at the engine,make sure the air intake isn't packed with snow so that the engine can get air.

rice400
02-01-2009, 08:45 AM
my low coolant light is coming on. i fill up the radiator and overflow with the proper amount and all is good. but then the next day my overflow is almost bone dry and my radiator is half filled at the most. of course, after a while my temp gauge starts to read really high and the heater will blow cold air. right before i pull over to shut it off, the needle drops down to where it should be, and the hot air returns.

obviously somethings not right. headgasket? heater core?

rice400
02-01-2009, 09:06 AM
maybe a stupid question: is there coolant flow through the heater core if the heater isn't being used? its starting to warmup outside so probably wont have to run the heat. my thought being, if coolant only flows through the core when using the heat, if i don't use the heat and i don't lose any coolant then i might have found the problem.

RapidTransit3
02-01-2009, 01:08 PM
Pull the rocker panel on the passenger side,the kickpanel,and pull back the carpet.If the heater core is leaking,there should be coolant under the carpet,and on top of the sheet metal floorpan,if not,you have a leak someplace else in the engine bay.

rice400
02-01-2009, 07:58 PM
i never seemed to have problems with my coolant level till now. now all of a sudden, i have to add coolant almost every day and its getting annoying, and kind of expensive.

the car has a new water pump, hoses, and thermostat

if it was a leaking heater core could i buy myself some time and use the heater as sparingly as possible, or is there always coolant flowing through the core?

RapidTransit3
02-01-2009, 08:10 PM
There's always coolant flowing through the heater core i do believe.Buy a flush and fill kit,or an appropriate sized double flare nipple and some hose clamps.Heater hoses come in different size from 1/2" to 5/8" to 3/4" depending on vehicle,year,engine,etc..What you can do as a dignostic is bypass the heater core by unhooking the two hoses from the heater core,and hooking them to one another with the nipple and hose clamps.If the coolant loss STOPS,you found your leak,but now you have no heat.No big deal here where i am,but i hope you aren't in Alaska,heh.I would peel the carpet back and look at the floorpan first.Sometimes heater cores do leak to the outside,and never into the cab though.Check the rest of the engine to make sure no leaks there.Leak checking the engine is simply a matter of getting under the car and looking for coolant accumulations.If you find coolant under the car,trace it back up and forward as coolant leaks down of course,and is blown back with road speed/wind.If you look carefully at my engine pic,you will see a black hose routed up from the driver side front of the water pump to the intake manifold,the hose is 5/8" diameter.When i built this car i installed a new,$50 heater core.Worked good for a couple years,but it took a dump at the dragstrip when i hit 2nd gear at 7000 Rpm.The cab of my car filled with friggin steam.So,i bypassed the heater core,flushed it with water,and blew it out with compressed air and said to hell with it,it's not a DD anyways,and not that cold here in the south.

rice400
02-01-2009, 08:14 PM
alright thanks. unfortunately i live in iowa and its going to get down to -2 tomorrow night. so i guess i'll just keeping adding coolant until i'm able to flush the radiator and try to find the leak

rice400
02-02-2009, 12:04 PM
well the car started to run hot again so i shut it off. after it cooled i drove it back to my house, a few blocks away. well of course, all my antifreeze was gone. i checked and sure enough coolant has been mixing with my oil. theres a pudding like sludge on some of the parts of my engine (looking through the oil fill hole) and on my oil cap. i looked at the back head and sure enough the gasket is blown, u can see it bulging out.

Damn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

shawnlarage
02-02-2009, 10:10 PM
i have a honda accord 1993 my drivers window is stuck and wont go up or down. also my back right window wont go up or down... the other windows move but slowly....ohh its a electric not manual window im trying to see if it is the individual motors or if it the main motor in the drivers side? plz help me....

Alchemist
02-03-2009, 06:09 AM
80k maintenance
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76088

boring a 302
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76090

rice400
02-03-2009, 09:14 PM
well i'm going to get a loan and get a new car. since coolant is mixing with the oil, the engine is pretty much crapped. so, i'm thinking about dumping some bleach into the crankcase, or just drain the oil, then start it and wait for it to die. i definitely wont be sad to see it die, its been a pain in the ass since i bought it.

Alchemist
02-06-2009, 05:38 AM
accord distributor
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76126

buick pwr steering hose
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76129

buick won't idle
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76118

land rover u-joint
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76113

starter compatibility
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76204

manual rack and pinion
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76212

brianfx1
02-08-2009, 07:40 PM
I have a 95 mazda MX6 2.0 4cyl with a 5sp manual the check engine light comes on when you reach about 70 miles and hour after the car has run for a while and does not do it as often in colder weather recently the car started acting up even further when you go down the road it seems to studder and feels almost like its missing yet the engine is running correctly ,,, i replaced the O2 sensor in it yesterday and it seems to have taken a the problem away at lower speeds but is still there when you reach about 60 - 70 miles an hour i have tried to get a code reading on it but because its intermittent and only happens at higher speeds it is not tripping a code the car's clutch was replaced about a year ago and was running fine up untill about a 2 weeks ago

Alchemist
02-09-2009, 04:47 AM
intermittent code
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76320

cooling fan
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76304

infiniti no heat
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76297

acura transmission
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76295

daewoo starting
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76334

s63
02-09-2009, 01:38 PM
Thanks

Alchemist
02-11-2009, 05:09 AM
lighting/electrical
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76408

4wd hubs
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76418

mazda no spark
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76414

MsRae
02-11-2009, 07:32 AM
I have a 95 mazda MX6 2.0 4cyl with a 5sp manual the check engine light comes on when you reach about 70 miles and hour after the car has run for a while and does not do it as often in colder weather recently the car started acting up even further when you go down the road it seems to studder and feels almost like its missing yet the engine is running correctly ,,, i replaced the O2 sensor in it yesterday and it seems to have taken a the problem away at lower speeds but is still there when you reach about 60 - 70 miles an hour i have tried to get a code reading on it but because its intermittent and only happens at higher speeds it is not tripping a code the car's clutch was replaced about a year ago and was running fine up untill about a 2 weeks ago


If your check engine light is coming on, it should be storing a code, regarless of if it is shutting off again. Have you taken it to have the code read? It could be a number of things, and I would start with trying to see if it is storing a code. Could be catalytic converter is clogged/worn out :dunno: Any exhaust shop will be able to tell you if it is your catalytic converter.

Alchemist
02-17-2009, 05:56 AM
2005 camry hvac
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76580

1991 corolla
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76632

eclipse emissions
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76639

Alchemist
02-18-2009, 05:36 AM
dakota transmission
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76710

Alchemist
02-23-2009, 12:55 PM
PO785 code
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76941

VW fan control module
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76926

4L60E transmission
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76932

tiburon timing belt
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76892

continental no start
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=76839

Alchemist
02-27-2009, 04:53 AM
oldsmobile eighty-eight
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77077

ajbowers
03-02-2009, 09:40 PM
allright guys i got another one for you, I recently had a dead battery, like not just a charge problem, but fried to where it will not hold a charge which means a new one. Now this is not the first time this has happened. I have replaced several batteries in the last couple of years, now its not soo bad, because they are all under warranty, but it is still a pain in the ass. Now im thinking its the voltage regulator, or the alternator that is overcharging it and frying the battery. Any thoughts would be helpful.

RapidTransit3
03-03-2009, 03:17 PM
allright guys i got another one for you, I recently had a dead battery, like not just a charge problem, but fried to where it will not hold a charge which means a new one. Now this is not the first time this has happened. I have replaced several batteries in the last couple of years, now its not soo bad, because they are all under warranty, but it is still a pain in the ass. Now im thinking its the voltage regulator, or the alternator that is overcharging it and frying the battery. Any thoughts would be helpful.
Cool car,post some pics of it.I'm not real familiar with the 1973 Ford charging system,but more than likely,the voltage regulator is separate from the alternator,and it probably is bad.They don't cost much,$15-$20 maybe.I would replace it as a precaution.The alternator will produce 16-18 volts,and it is the job of the regulator ro bring the charging voltage down to 14 volts or so.

Alchemist
03-05-2009, 09:19 AM
mitsubishi transmission
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77362

oldsmobile eighty-eight
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77077

mercury sable brakes
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77178

camaro 3.8
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77182

land rover air suspension
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77319

Alchemist
03-09-2009, 05:01 AM
trooper delayed starting
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77476

4wd hubs
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77479

durango brakes
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77505

chevy signal flasher
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77509

99hondaaccord
03-09-2009, 03:49 PM
Cool car,post some pics of it.I'm not real familiar with the 1973 Ford charging system,but more than likely,the voltage regulator is separate from the alternator,and it probably is bad.They don't cost much,$15-$20 maybe.I would replace it as a precaution.The alternator will produce 16-18 volts,and it is the job of the regulator ro bring the charging voltage down to 14 volts or so.
or you could measure battery voltage with the engine running?

Alchemist
03-10-2009, 05:38 AM
durango brakes
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77505

chevy signal flasher
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77509


camaro shaking
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77561

Alchemist
03-19-2009, 05:24 AM
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77932

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77909

Alchemist
03-20-2009, 08:44 AM
voyager vibration
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77999

blazer steering column
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77909

So0pahBoy
03-20-2009, 09:29 AM
how can you disconnect the battery without resetting the ecu?

99hondaaccord
03-20-2009, 12:08 PM
how can you disconnect the battery without resetting the ecu?
hook a jumper lead from the terminal to the cable. If you need to COMPLETELY remove the - cable, you can run a jumper from the terminal straight to a known good ground.

buisn3ssman
03-21-2009, 09:45 PM
I hope u can help I have a 99 eclipse gst and my alternator fuse recently blew wen I wen to pulld it out it left the metal prongs in. is ther a special way to pull this out email at [email protected] if u can help I feel like a idiot I've done all the work on this car myself and can't figure this one out

Alchemist
03-24-2009, 05:03 AM
shifting issue
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=77962

hyundai
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78112

acura idle control
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78121

rebuild929
03-24-2009, 12:31 PM
I have a 1994 mazda 929 and having trouble with the coling system, like every car I've had. The car over-heats anout 5 mins after reaching normal temp. There is no white smoke coming out of the exhaust or water/bubbles in the oil to indicate a blown head gasket, yet the car over-heats after 5 miles of running. Water vapor pours out of the overfill on the side. There are no water leaks externally. My plugs are fouled due to over heating before hand so there is a rattling to the engine. The car does idol and start on command. I am lost to what the problem is. Any advice is much helpful.

99hondaaccord
03-24-2009, 01:03 PM
How about a thermostat?

rice400
03-24-2009, 01:34 PM
yep sounds like the thermostat is stuck closed

Alchemist
03-27-2009, 08:20 AM
ignition cylinder
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78269

clunk after brake job
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78164

Alchemist
03-31-2009, 06:03 AM
7.3 ford diesel
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78434

won't start when warm
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78382

creaking in reverse
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78359

280z fuel issue
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78405

lady_tracy0204
04-01-2009, 10:35 AM
hey, i have a 2004 tiburon gt & the kill switch wont turn off, therefore i cant start the car, i was wondering if these kill switches were factory installed on all 2004 tuscanis or aftermarket and if there is any way to bypass it? Thank u!

iluvtheflush
04-02-2009, 02:08 PM
I have a 07 chevey equinox. The key is stuck in the run position. no lights are working on the dash,headlights or dome light and it wont shift out of park. I went to start the car and the lights were working but when i turned the key all the lights went out and the key wont turn back all the way to get it out and the car will not start. The car is at my girlfriends dads house and apparently her sister came home after is was sitting over night and the car was running. She turned it off and took the key out. Then her dad went to start it and the lights went out again and the key is stuck again and it wont start. the car has about 47K miles on it. I am wondering if it is a computer prob,battery prob or maybe something with the alarm. I hope it is not a big problem if someone could help me i would really appreciate it.

Alchemist
04-03-2009, 07:55 AM
installing crank pulley
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78440

tachometer not reading correctly
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78447

tbi engine cuts out
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78453

running issue
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78486

subaru central locking
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78497

dodge neon ignition
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78498

subaru clutch
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78552

So0pahBoy
04-03-2009, 01:31 PM
Breaks make strange noises when wet.
I remember reading about this and that it was something simple but, I can't remember for the life of me.

99hondaaccord
04-03-2009, 09:28 PM
Is there actually a question in there or are we just post whoring?

So0pahBoy
04-04-2009, 12:34 PM
it's a question.

kidvortec
04-04-2009, 12:43 PM
1994 olds bravada hard to start cold and hot but one little shot of starting fluid and it fires right up with no problem . tested the ignition coil but was unsure of the recomended resistance has 10,000 ohms. possibly thought it was a bad fuel pump but when running it runs fine. also checked for wet plugs to indicate fuel reaching the cylinders and were wet . has no trouble codes . once an a while runs rough with ocasional backfire and poor throttle response

99hondaaccord
04-04-2009, 01:46 PM
it's a question.
Here in America, questions are denoted by this --> ?

It's commonly known as the "question mark". Stupid name, huh?

I cannot find the question in your post.

So0pahBoy
04-04-2009, 02:09 PM
Breaks make strange noises when wet.
I remember reading about this and that it was something simple but, I can't remember for the life of me.
what is wrong with the brakes?

99hondaaccord
04-04-2009, 02:58 PM
What kind of noises? Low humming noises are typical of wet brakes. Drive so the brakes barely touch to run the water off.

wineboy
04-05-2009, 04:58 PM
I can't find my water pump. I'm half way into the job and can't be sure.
I can tell which is the alternator, on my post, I attached a under the hood photo. Can you identify which is my water pump.

Alchemist
04-07-2009, 05:48 AM
installing crank pulley
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78440

tachometer not reading correctly
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78447

tbi engine cuts out
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78453

running issue
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78486

subaru central locking
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78497

dodge neon ignition
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78498

subaru clutch
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78552

R&R window regulator
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78583

grand prix overheating
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78689

inaccurate fuel gauge
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78653

99hondaaccord
04-07-2009, 01:03 PM
I can't find my water pump. I'm half way into the job and can't be sure.
I can tell which is the alternator, on my post, I attached a under the hood photo. Can you identify which is my water pump.
no you didnt and it should be one of the accessories run off your belt...

airbag2
04-08-2009, 06:39 AM
Sorry if this has been post before...or just show me the way. But today I will have THE "conversation" with the Chrysler dealer and I am tired of that.

Quick story:
July 08 I went to the dealer with two problems a) air bag light on and b) the cruise control was on/off at intervals. Solution for a) was that the seat belt retractor, seat belt was change b) was too expensive to change the sensor so I leave it as it is, so far is now working...PAID 300 bucks for all the stuff.

Sep08 went back again to the dealer for the air bag light on, they said it was the same code and the seat belt retractor was changed AGAIN.

Jan09 (the car was still in the repair/hand warranty) air bag light on again, I TOLD them that please check with the company, bulletins, whatever is necessary since this is NOT the retractor something else is going on...again, seat belt was sent they say they check "all codes" and "everything" and nothing was out of normal.

Apr09 (still under previous warranty) AGAIN, this time I asked the service supervisor and now he said that "looks that the car was in wreck", well I bought the car in 2005 the car is from 2004. I don't know if it was or not and that's not the point. They want to look like "seems on a four year ago wreck" is the cause of the issue. Now I am mad and VERY angry. Now they say the ENTIRE module most change...I am not sure if this is the problem but in anycase if that's the case they misdiagnosed and they did not do their job. For that matter then nobody should get a car in a dealer after a small bump or crash because they won't do anything. And again, that's not the point...the point is that they really don't know what's going on with my car and I know I am not the only one, but I look and look for answers and nothing seems come from the dealers!

Thanks!

Alchemist
04-10-2009, 08:13 AM
intrepid brakes.
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78807

ford bolt pattern
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78817

high oil pressure
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78811

ajbowers
04-11-2009, 06:10 PM
allright i am stuck. I recently had problems with my electrical system... The stereo was cutting out more and more and just stopped working altogether. then the headlights began to dim. The next morning the car would not turn over at all, my battery was dead. I hooked up the jumper cables and jump started it, it ran for a few days just fine with no problem starting and running. Then I went out the next day and it wouldnt start over. Great... so beings I had just replaced the battery not even a month ago i figured it was the charging system. I went out and bought a brand new alternator, voltage regulator, Alternator belt. and installed all of that into the car, hooking the wires up right and ensuring the belt was tight. Now I charged the battery with a charger and the next day fired it up. I took a reading across the battery terminals and it read around 11 or 12. I know it needs to be up around 14 or 15. And the alternator light stays on the whole time the car is running, telling me i have a problem with the charging system. I really dont have any other ideas at this point, you guys got any?

99hondaaccord
04-11-2009, 06:59 PM
the wire from the alternator could have high resistance or you may have a loose connection.

ajbowers
04-11-2009, 07:01 PM
loose connection at what? the back of the alternator?

Demlock
04-12-2009, 10:25 AM
Vehicle 1997 Ford Mustang GT
Original Mileage 89,xxx

My driver power seat seems to not be working, won't move period. I have unplugged the wiring within the seat, which consists of two wires.
One comes from the seat itself and one from the floor of the car. The one from the floor reads 150 AC and from the seat 0 AC as expected.

What should I do next? Replace the motor?

ajbowers
04-12-2009, 11:33 AM
okay i hooked up a voltmeter, on one side the alternator output and on the other to a ground, and i still read 11.5-12 volts. So its not the wiring...and I just replaced the alternator and the belt, could it be that i just got a bad alternator?

nastyneil87
04-12-2009, 01:13 PM
i have a 1993 bmw 325i auto tranny. i just put 18 inch rims and tires on it 2 days ago ang got a slow leak i was driving and before i knew it it was completely flat i had to drive on it for about 2 miles i didnt exceed 15 miles per hour. i got it filled up at a gas station and i sat there for 30 minutes to see if id loose air and i didnt it seemed fine, as soon as i started driving again it felt like i had a flat still i stopped and checked and it was still full..for some reason after 10mph the car shakes and makes noise i know for a fact its coming from that back tire. i dont know waht the problem anyone with a guess let me kno.

Alchemist
04-12-2009, 01:17 PM
are the tires rubbing against the car?

aftermarket wheels? whoever mounted them may have balanced them wrong.

Demlock
04-12-2009, 06:58 PM
For $10 per tire you should be able to have them Rebalanced and Rotated. See if this fixes your issue. Also check to see if the tires are rubbing the side of the car, larger tires may not fit properly ( or rims ).

Basically +1 for Alchemist's solution.

Alchemist
04-13-2009, 04:51 AM
trouble code 26
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=78900

Alchemist
04-14-2009, 04:58 AM
taurus transmission
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79043

3000gt
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79050

installing timing belt
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79051

nissan CEL
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79049

Alchemist
04-15-2009, 05:49 AM
3000gt
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79050

installing timing belt
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79051


transmission query
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79121

Alchemist
04-17-2009, 10:55 AM
obd 1 diagnostics
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79163

87 camry no start
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79194

stumbles in gear
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79180

fuel pressure specs
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79210

fuel gauge
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79229

Alchemist
04-22-2009, 05:42 AM
replacing oil pump
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79275

mercury issue
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79277

window motors
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79289

trans. recommendation
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79371

power point
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79402

trans cooler
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79431

high idle
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79425

Celebrity maniac
04-23-2009, 09:25 AM
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Alchemist
04-27-2009, 10:43 AM
hard to start; warm engine
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79507

turbo 4runner
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79466

obdII connector
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79600

truck shaking and burning smell
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79596

installing carburetor
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79702

Auburn1992
04-28-2009, 03:43 AM
Alright, kind of new to cars, so don't make fun of me if this is a stupid q :biggrin:

Anyway, I've got a 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 regular cab 4x2 LWB (Classic Model). It is stock including the tires (245/70/17 - as I am told).

I would like to replace them with some 33 inch tires. Would this be possible/safe? I am going to lift it 3 inches anyhow.

Also, could you refer me to some 33 inch tires?

Thanks alot.

dubinsky17
04-30-2009, 10:53 AM
I just had my 2002 Mits Gallant repaired. I had all the belts changed and the throttle cable changed because my gas pedal was sticking. As soon as I drove the car home, I immediately noticed while accelerating, that the car didnt shift smoothly. It is almost like the car is idling differently or quickly and the shifting can't keep up with it? The car was fine in this regard before handing it over to the mechanic. I took it back to him and he drove it and said it seemed fine. I notice this problem more so with stop and go traffic. Could this problem be related to the timing belt and tensioner replacements or the throttle cable replacement? Thank you.

ObseSSed
04-30-2009, 10:56 AM
Give "Le Mechanica" a little to reply. He has been busy lately and hasn't been able to post alot.

infinite34
05-02-2009, 07:02 AM
I have found a great page with car specifications/pics. Hope you like it.

http://www.data4car.com

Alchemist
05-04-2009, 05:20 AM
new head, burning oil
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79929

high idle
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?goto=lastpost&t=79425


hydraulic fluid
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79969

issues after replacing distributor
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79996

no power to coil
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79995

replace window motor
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79994

no start
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79967

overhauling differential
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=79736

transmission
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=80026

DM26
05-04-2009, 06:05 PM
I bought a used 2005 Dodge Magnum and the car is extremely low. It's a problem coming out of low parking lots and of course last winter was no fun with the snow and ice. I'd like to raise the car at least 2 inches but I don't know what the best way to go about doing that is. Replace the struts, replace this springs? Replace both? Any suggestions would be appreciated

Alchemist
05-06-2009, 05:12 AM
stalling with a/c on
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=80138

ignition
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=80142

missing at speed
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=80089

Alchemist
05-08-2009, 07:44 AM
vw distributor
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=80252

p1811
http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=80261

kramer 427
05-11-2009, 02:00 PM
anyone know if it would be possible to take the clutch out of a standard and replace it with a torque converter? my friend wants to get a standard because he thinks he knows how to drive it by shift points, but doesn't have a clue what a clutch is, it'd be nice to make him an "auto clutch" if i could

rice400
05-11-2009, 02:46 PM
anyone know if it would be possible to take the clutch out of a standard and replace it with a torque converter? my friend wants to get a standard because he thinks he knows how to drive it by shift points, but doesn't have a clue what a clutch is, it'd be nice to make him an "auto clutch" if i could

what?

kramer 427
05-11-2009, 06:34 PM
i want to take the standard clutch out of his truck and put in an automatic torque converter so he doesn't stall out at every intersection and burn through 3 clutches a year, would the torque converter work with the standard tranny?

Spaz_Bmx
05-11-2009, 06:43 PM
i want to take the standard clutch out of his truck and put in an automatic torque converter so he doesn't stall out at every intersection and burn through 3 clutches a year, would the torque converter work with the standard tranny?

No. Standard(manual) trans. Doesn't use a torque converter.

kramer 427
05-11-2009, 06:47 PM
i know, not production, but would it be at all possible to swap out the clutch for a torque converter? they do the same thing, just the clutch is manually engaged and lets the engine run directly to the transmission and the torque converter is automatic and has a delay between the engine and tranny, i don't know if anyone's ever tried to make that swap, but if anyone's gotten it to work let me know

Xero
05-11-2009, 06:48 PM
i want to take the standard clutch out of his truck and put in an automatic torque converter so he doesn't stall out at every intersection and burn through 3 clutches a year, would the torque converter work with the standard tranny?
:rotf:

Spaz_Bmx
05-11-2009, 06:50 PM
:facepalm:

kramer 427
05-11-2009, 07:03 PM
i'm not crazy, i'm not... why don't you give me a call when you want to take things... a little.. more.. seriously... here's my card

kramer 427
05-11-2009, 07:04 PM
i'm kidding, i don't have a card, but seriously, someone should look into that, it could work

Spaz_Bmx
05-11-2009, 07:04 PM
You can not use a torque converter on a manual(standard) transmission.

kramer 427
05-11-2009, 07:28 PM
i realize that you shouldn't, it's a little out of the ordinary, but it really should work, like a homemade dog clutch, it really should

Xero
05-12-2009, 10:33 AM
No..................