Mike90Laser
01-30-2007, 07:29 PM
Hey everybody,
I would love any help I might get with a problem I'm having with my car. I have a 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo, and I was having some sputtering and hesitation occasionally right at start up that would go away almost immediately. About a week ago it ran fine on about a 5 mile excursion, then when I restarted it about 1.5 hours after last running the car, it gave me sputtering with low rpms (100 - 300) then it cut out. I was able to restart and rev higher with the gas pedal but even with the pedal depressed it would go back down to low rpms and die. Since I wasn't home and really didn't want to have to get it towed I tried restarting and revving to about 2000 rpms about 5 more times but each time it sputtered and died. On the final konk out, I heard a clicking sound from somewhere behind the radio in the dash. The click sounded kind of like the click a solenoid makes when there isn't enough juice to crank a motor, but it was multiple clicks in a row and definitely sounded on the passenger compartment side of the firewall. I put in new plugs and wires (car has a direct ignition, so there is no distributor or rotor) and had no luck. The old plugs didn't show any signs of wear either. Then I moved on to the fuel system and replaced the fuel filter and found there was a blown fuse (there is a fuse box mounted on the positive lead to the battery that houses fuses for the ignition, auto fan and MPI - the MPI fuse was blown), so I replaced the fuse and got no luck. Then I checked for spark by taking one of the plugs out and grounding it and checked for spark, and there wasn't any spark. From there I checked in my Haynes manual to check my ECM (which is located behind the radio where the clicking sound came from, this is also where the fuel relay is located). To test the ECM I attached an analog voltmeter to the OBD plug and when I checked for any codes by monitoring the sweeps of the voltmeter I received nothing at all. The voltmeter is supposed to go from 1 to 12 back and forth if it is operating normally, or 0 to 12 and stay there if the ECM is bad. But when I did my test it never left 0. I am at a loss, and I hesitate to replace the ECM because 1. it isn't the cheapest of parts and 2. if it is bad I don't know what would have caused it to go bad and I would hate to fry another one. Sorry for being so long winded, but I figured the more detail up front the better, and as most of you can probably already tell, I am by no means a professional.
Thanks in advance.
I would love any help I might get with a problem I'm having with my car. I have a 1990 Plymouth Laser RS Turbo, and I was having some sputtering and hesitation occasionally right at start up that would go away almost immediately. About a week ago it ran fine on about a 5 mile excursion, then when I restarted it about 1.5 hours after last running the car, it gave me sputtering with low rpms (100 - 300) then it cut out. I was able to restart and rev higher with the gas pedal but even with the pedal depressed it would go back down to low rpms and die. Since I wasn't home and really didn't want to have to get it towed I tried restarting and revving to about 2000 rpms about 5 more times but each time it sputtered and died. On the final konk out, I heard a clicking sound from somewhere behind the radio in the dash. The click sounded kind of like the click a solenoid makes when there isn't enough juice to crank a motor, but it was multiple clicks in a row and definitely sounded on the passenger compartment side of the firewall. I put in new plugs and wires (car has a direct ignition, so there is no distributor or rotor) and had no luck. The old plugs didn't show any signs of wear either. Then I moved on to the fuel system and replaced the fuel filter and found there was a blown fuse (there is a fuse box mounted on the positive lead to the battery that houses fuses for the ignition, auto fan and MPI - the MPI fuse was blown), so I replaced the fuse and got no luck. Then I checked for spark by taking one of the plugs out and grounding it and checked for spark, and there wasn't any spark. From there I checked in my Haynes manual to check my ECM (which is located behind the radio where the clicking sound came from, this is also where the fuel relay is located). To test the ECM I attached an analog voltmeter to the OBD plug and when I checked for any codes by monitoring the sweeps of the voltmeter I received nothing at all. The voltmeter is supposed to go from 1 to 12 back and forth if it is operating normally, or 0 to 12 and stay there if the ECM is bad. But when I did my test it never left 0. I am at a loss, and I hesitate to replace the ECM because 1. it isn't the cheapest of parts and 2. if it is bad I don't know what would have caused it to go bad and I would hate to fry another one. Sorry for being so long winded, but I figured the more detail up front the better, and as most of you can probably already tell, I am by no means a professional.
Thanks in advance.