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View Full Version : 77 El Camino, Love it, Help :)


Nikknak
10-21-2006, 10:29 PM
Allright so this is my second car, a beautiful 1977 Chevy El Camino in perfect condition. I've never been much of an engine guy, done some smaller stuff to it to keep it running smooth, but more to the point.

If this isn't the right place to ask this I apologize, but the engine is a 350 v8, 4 barrel, 3 speed engine. I want to know where i should start making improvements. Been thinking about upgrading the carb, also want to do a full exaust since someone told me the car doesnt have to pass emissions anymore since it just turned into a "classic" title.

If i do upgrade the carb any suggestions on whats good for that engine? Or should i start upgrades somewhere else? Any help appreciated, super excited about this car, thanks.

Txchevy
10-21-2006, 10:42 PM
How many miles are on the car? If you start up-grading a lot of part and make more power the chances of you breaking other parts gets higher. I alway start with the Breaks. Not much fun going fast if you cant stop. I would rebuild the breaks even if they are in good shape. Drums are hard to do if you haven't done done them b4. Next change all the fuilds. DO Not use sythics on an old car. It will start to leak oil. If everything seems like its in good shape and its a low mile car, (under a 100K) I would start with a intake and new carb. Check Summit Racing to see what types of packages you can find. You might be able to find a set of headers for it while you are looking. When I 1st started my life as gearhead I had very little knowledge too. Best of luck and keep us posted.

Nikknak
10-21-2006, 10:47 PM
I've already replaced both rear brake drums and cylinders, and swapped in a new radiator and flushed all fluids. The brake cylinders were leaking like crazy and the radiator was split down the seam when i bought it. Other than that I'm set. The brakes were definately tricky to get back together, but did one at a time so i could look at the other for re-assembly purposes. Really enjoy working on this car though.

But intake and carb...check. I'll see what i can find.

Nikknak
10-22-2006, 11:58 AM
Just hoping to get a little advice on what to install. Mainly whats the differance between the 380$ kit http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2DCWND001AS&view=1&N=700+150

And the 900+$ kits like http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2DCEDL300&N=700+4294908216+4294908186+4294925061+4294925239+ 4294845683+4294840140+115&autoview=sku

Also wondering what differance in performance there would be over the stock intake/carb on the 5.7l/350. Already really wanna do this, those parts are just so damn shiny.

Txchevy
10-22-2006, 12:54 PM
Stock alternator brackets do not fit. Carb center-to-center is 6 7/16 in. Air conditioning bracket bosses and front oil-filler tube boss included. Requires a front oil-filler tube and cap or 1.250" plug.

I dont think you want to start hunting brackets.

Let me do some homework, see what I can find for ya. I know that Carcraft did a test on a bunch of these but it was a while ago. I would go with a duel plane intake for the street. Let me see what I can turn up.

DetroitMuscle
10-22-2006, 04:10 PM
It only doesnt have to be tested if its plated as such ie AV or classic plates.

start on the air/fuel system, get an edelbrock air gap manifold and a 650 mech sec DP, get the trans rebuilt and add a shift kit and a 22-2500 rpm convertor. If you want to go anywhere with it though you need to get some suspension done, I just sold my 78 and it wouldnt leave the line, just sat and spun till I got some new arms and an airbag for it.

The real questions are....... What mileage is on it, where do you live and how much do you want to put into it, and will it be a daily driver?

Nikknak
10-22-2006, 11:29 PM
start on the air/fuel system, get an edelbrock air gap manifold and a 650 mech sec DP, get the trans rebuilt and add a shift kit and a 22-2500 rpm convertor. If you want to go anywhere with it though you need to get some suspension done, I just sold my 78 and it wouldnt leave the line, just sat and spun till I got some new arms and an airbag for it.

The real questions are....... What mileage is on it, where do you live and how much do you want to put into it, and will it be a daily driver?

The answers to the real questions are over 100k miles, but the previous owner had the engine rebuilt by the dealer like 15k miles ago, have all the papers on it. Live in central coast california, i could put like 500$-800$ a month into upgrading it. And i'd like it to be a daily driver. I've got a truck and a sebring convertable i can drive for when this thing is getting worked on but its my favorite to drive around town in.

Also just wanna say i really appreciate the help. It's sad to realize how clueless im finding myself to be when it comes to these performance upgrades but with the car being a 77 I feel like i can wrap my head around all the things that are going on in there. My buddys 3000gt is just scary to look under the hood. God i love the sound of that turbo though.

DetroitMuscle
10-23-2006, 04:13 AM
Id watch what you do since you live in cali, I bought my 78 there when I loved in coastal socal, I had to move it to Illinois to bypass the emissions tests in cali. Check your laws really well because I think you still need to be tested in cali, especially since its a 77 and not a 74.

That 3kgt is a PIG,drop some weight, gain some HP and you will smoke that thing, do it at the track though, I hear cali likes to crush cars.

Txchevy
10-23-2006, 06:32 PM
The best thing about chevy dude is that all the parts fit. A 350 is 350. 5.7 liters. the only changes where many moons before your 77. Mostly small neck and long neck water pumps. Anyways, anything you find for a small block chevy will work on your car. Just make sure it has the bolt holes for your brakets. Every part should tell you and if it doesn't just ask the sales person. Summits tec support is GREAT. I have only had one problem with one moron. I am still looking for you. i am going back through 10 years of mags to find that one on intake and carb combo's. Can you tell me what size your carb is? I think that you might just want to keep the stock one and maybe change the jets to suit the intake. The AIRgap is a great street manifold and you can find them all day long used on ebay too. I ran the airgap single plane on my hotstock for years. I think you might have the 550cmf or the 600cfm Q-jet, which is a great carb. being in Cally you can find someone to rebuild and upgrade it for you. Hope that helps.

Txchevy
10-23-2006, 11:13 PM
I found what I use: Summit part #'s
I am guessing your car has EGR?
SUM-226018 Price $129.95 intake
JET-35002 Carb $359.95
It depends on your hosrepower goals? What do you want to make?

Nikknak
10-24-2006, 12:51 AM
Yeah it has an EGR but i was looking at it the other day and i think its not opening, cant say i've heard any pinging or anything though so might be working fine. Are duel carbs worth the extra $$? I'm just browsing through everything summit has and they look like alot of trouble to install too.

Also a question on the intake. DetroitMuscle said Air-Gap intake like the summit part # EDL-2601. Are these air gap intakes that much better? Oh, and i have no idea what a vortec cylinder head is, and that that intake says it only fits vortec cylinder heads.

Sorry for all the questions, but thanks for all the answers.

P.s. Yeah did some calling around it used to be a 77 could get away with no emissions but they changed it to 75, dunno if in 2 years mine will be exempt or not but for now if need be i'll save the stock carb/intake/exaust and bolt em on for emissions testing. One weekend isn't so bad, i'll get better at workin with the engine while I'm at it.

Nikknak
10-24-2006, 12:56 AM
Far as HP goes I'm looking for the most drastic gains possible, not too worried about how much fuel it uses. Thing already gulps huge amounts down without the jumping off the line. I don't mind saving up a month or two to get the more expensive part if its gonna make a nice differance.

Txchevy
10-24-2006, 05:38 PM
OK, the vortec heads are late model and you could use them if you could find some. I dont rebuild used heads. I just buy new ones. By the time you have them rebuilt you are about 200 bucks from the new ones. I ran Vortec heads on my race car. They are good heads and you can get them brand new. I would go with AFR heads if I was going to change.
AS to your other question about the smog stuff. You can keep all the old stuff, but you wont need it. You will need to keep your car EGR and any smog pumps that might be on it smog tubes and check valves. You can up-grade all the other stuff.
Ok, if it was up to me, I would pull the engine and rebuild it, again. I could tell by looking if the bottom end if it needed to be gone through. Lets say its fine because I believe it is. I would change the heads out, cam, lifters, intake and rebuild the stock carb. Add a set of headers and change the pipes all the way back to true duals, not just cat back. If you want between 450 and 500 hp, you can get there and leave the bottom end stock. Most people would not do that but I re-use old bottoms all the time. It is better to rebuild them but I was always broke. Hey I am still broke. Let me know if there is anything else I can do. l8trs

DetroitMuscle
10-25-2006, 05:54 AM
Yeah it has an EGR but i was looking at it the other day and i think its not opening, cant say i've heard any pinging or anything though so might be working fine. Are duel carbs worth the extra $$? I'm just browsing through everything summit has and they look like alot of trouble to install too.

Also a question on the intake. DetroitMuscle said Air-Gap intake like the summit part # EDL-2601. Are these air gap intakes that much better? Oh, and i have no idea what a vortec cylinder head is, and that that intake says it only fits vortec cylinder heads.

Sorry for all the questions, but thanks for all the answers.

P.s. Yeah did some calling around it used to be a 77 could get away with no emissions but they changed it to 75, dunno if in 2 years mine will be exempt or not but for now if need be i'll save the stock carb/intake/exaust and bolt em on for emissions testing. One weekend isn't so bad, i'll get better at workin with the engine while I'm at it.

My 78 had to be tested once, in 99 before It went antique. I had nothing but a PCV valve on the car for smog crap and it passed better then my fathers 99 S-10 did at idle tests. I know you are in cali but if you can get it running that efficently with hi-po parts,you can pass the sniffer just not the visual.

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